




LAKE QUINAULT
On your first visit to Lake Quinault, I would recommend the 31 mile
loop drive, formed by a short stretch of highway 101, the North
Shore Road, and the South Shore Road. Pack a picnic. Let's start
on highway 101, heading north. Here you are at the western end of
the lake, looking east. A recent clearcut opens up a great view of
the lake with the snow-capped Olympic peaks beyond. In ten years,
this view will be hidden.
Continue past Amanda Park to the North Shore Road and turn right.
After a short drive you reach the entrance to the Olympic National
Park, and you will notice that the trees are much older and bigger -
not having been recently logged.
Your first stop is the Quinault Big Cedar. Park by the road and
follow the half mile trail to this awesome tree. The Big Cedar
reminds me of a forgotten ruin, looking almost like broken pillars.
The tree is hollowed out such that half a dozen people can stand
inside of it. Looking up inside the tree you can see daylight 200
feet above your head. The tree lost all of its bark decades or
centuries ago, such that it is hard to tell that it is a cedar. High up
on the tree you can see some live cedar branches, but it is hard to
tell whether these belong to the Big Cedar or an opportunistic
plant growing out of it.
A couple miles further down the North Shore Road, you will reach
the July Creek picnic area. Shown above is a panorama of Lake
Quinault from this spot. July Creek is the prettiest picnic area you
could ever hope to find. One table in particular enjoys a
commanding view of the lake. Down at the lake shore, kids can play
on the beach and at the mouth of the creek.
The North Shore Road continues past the eastern end of the lake
into the upper Quinault river valley. The forest is replaced here by
some open fields, where a few farms were established over 100
years ago. The park service is restoring the Kestner Homestead,
an old farm near the Quinault Ranger Station. The sign on the road
says "Maple Glade Trail". The level trail forms a 3/4 mile loop
through an utterly lovely rain forest dominated by towering maple
trees. Half way through the walk you reach the homestead with its
fields, split rail fences, and historic farm buildings (not open). The
most charming artifact is a 1930s delivery truck, rusting in a field
and with its cabin completely filled by vines.
The North Shore Road continues on to the east, alternating
between lovely views of the river and surrounding hills and back
into the enclosing forest. The asphalt gives out here, giving way to
a dirt road. However, it is a wide and well-maintained dirt road - no
need to hesitate about it. Eventually you reach a bridge over the
river that brings you to the South Shore Road.
There are three waterfalls along this section of the South Shore
Road that are visible from the road. At the first of these there is a
large sand bank that my kids like to play on. A giant boulder looms
over the river - an irresistable object for the kids to climb. It looks
kind of dangerous, but we haven't lost a kid into the river yet.
Down on the sand bank are lots of small rocks to climb on and
sticks to through in the river.
The major waterfall in this area is Bunch Falls, which cascades
down three courses over boulders and fallen logs. All around it is
surrounded by rich greenery: moss, ferns, and trees. My
sister-in-law from parched Los Angeles was enchanted by it. She
said, "this is where the people at Disneyland get their ideas!"
Three further spectacular sights await you along the South Shore
Road on your way back to highway 101. On the grounds of the
Quinault Village Resort stands the 1,000 year old Big Spruce. A
small parking lot is provided up on the road and a short trail leads
to the tree. This tree is vigorous and healthy compared to the Big
Cedar. Nine of us climbed up on its exposed roots for a picture and
we don't begin to cover it. Thirty or forty people could have stood
there for a picture.
The place most people visit at the lake is the historic Lake Quinault
Lodge - perhaps missing many of the treasures I've described so
far. The lodge is an amazing place. It was built in just 53 days back
in 1926 with exquisite craftmanship. From the road you are already
impressed by the sharply pitched roof, cedar siding, and attractive
white trimmed windows and doors. The lobby immerses you in rich
woodwork and Indian artwork. The large brick fireplace - always
with a fire burning - invites you to pause and warm yourself. The
restaurant - the Roosevelt Room, which was named after FDR and
his visit in 1937 - is the best around for 100 miles. The signature
dish is a smoked salmon served on a cedar plank. Save room also
for the clam chowder and the marionberry pie. Out the other side
of the lobby you reach the lush green lawn, dropping gradually to
the lake shore. The lodge sits on a magnificent site with a
commanding view of the lake. Visitors can rent boats here (kayaks,
canoes, pedal boats) or walk along the lakeside trail. In the
evenings, a fire pit by the lake is lit and an Indian storyteller
enterains guests.
A little west of the lodge is the Quinault Rain Forest Loop Trail - a
half mile trail. This rain forest is dominated by cedar, spruce, and
firs - unlike the maple rain forest by the Kestner Homestead. This
forest is very similar to the more famous Hoh Rain Forest an hour
and a half drive to the north.
Quinault Hiking Map
http://www.quinaultriverinn.com/images/hiking_map6.pdf
by Bob Kelly http://www.BobsPacificBeachHouse.com










